Frequently Asked Questions

Most AC repairs run between $300 and $800. A capacitor or contactor replacement is on the low end ($300–$450). Refrigerant leak repair and recharge lands in the middle ($500–$700). A compressor replacement is the most expensive common repair at $1,200–$2,500. We charge a diagnostic fee of $89–$250 that gets applied to the repair total if you move forward the same day.

We offer same-day service for most AC repair calls, with a 2-hour arrival window. During peak summer months (June–August), demand is highest and we triage by severity — a complete system failure in a home with elderly residents or small children gets priority. We're open 7 days a week including holidays. After-hours and emergency calls carry a surcharge of $134–$200 on top of the repair cost, but when your house is 95° at midnight, that's a reasonable price for getting someone there.

The three most common causes: low refrigerant from a leak, a failed compressor, or a frozen evaporator coil. Less common but possible: a stuck reversing valve (heat pump systems), a failed run capacitor, or a blocked condenser coil. First thing to check yourself: look at your air filter. If it's solid gray or hasn't been changed in 3+ months, swap it and give the system 30 minutes. A clogged filter causes about 20% of the "not cooling" calls we get. If the filter is fine, go outside and look at your condenser — if the fan isn't spinning, that's likely a capacitor or contactor. Don't keep running the system if it's blowing warm — you can cause compressor damage. Turn it off and call us.

Our rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half what a new system costs, and your unit is over 10 years old, replacement usually wins. A $600 repair on a 15-year-old system is buying you another year or two, not solving the underlying problem. Also consider your energy bills — a system from 2010 might be running at 10 SEER while a new system is 15-16 SEER2. In San Antonio, where your AC runs most of the year, that efficiency difference can save $50–$80/month on your CPS Energy bill. We'll show you the numbers for both options and let you decide — we don't push replacements when a repair will genuinely last.

Yes. We're a Trane Comfort Specialist dealer, but our technicians are trained on every major brand: Carrier, Lennox, Rheem, Goodman, York, Amana, Daikin, Mitsubishi, and more. The diagnostic process is the same regardless of brand — electrical, refrigerant, airflow, and mechanical. Where brand matters is parts: some manufacturers make proprietary control boards or coils that need to be ordered from the distributor, which can add a day or two for uncommon systems. But for the most common repairs — capacitors, contactors, fan motors, refrigerant — we carry universal and OEM parts on every truck. If it cools a house in San Antonio, we can fix it.

Buzzing usually points to an electrical issue — a failing contactor or relay. Clicking at startup can be a bad capacitor trying to fire. Grinding or screeching means a motor bearing is going out — the fan motor in your air handler or the condenser fan motor outside. Hissing suggests a refrigerant leak at a braze joint or Schrader valve. Banging from the outdoor unit often means a loose or broken compressor mount, or sometimes a stick or debris that fell into the condenser fan. A high-pitched whine from the indoor unit can be a blower wheel that's come loose on its shaft. None of these get better on their own. The longer you wait, the more likely a cheap fix turns into an expensive one. A $200 fan motor becomes a $2,000 compressor when the system overheats.

If another company quoted you a major repair — especially a compressor replacement or full coil swap — a second opinion is smart. We see cases where the actual problem was a $300 part but the first company quoted $2,000. We don't charge extra for being the second call, and our diagnostic fee still applies toward the repair.

You can't prevent every failure, but annual maintenance catches most problems before they strand you in the heat. The biggest thing you can do yourself: change your filter every 30–60 days during summer. A clogged filter restricts airflow, freezes your coil, and stresses every component in the system. Use a basic pleated filter — those expensive HEPA filters actually restrict airflow too much for most residential systems and can cause the same problems as a dirty filter. Beyond that, a professional tune-up in spring ($89–$250) checks refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and the condensate drain — the three things that cause 80% of summer breakdowns. Keep your outdoor condenser clear of debris and trim vegetation back 2 feet on all sides so it can breathe. And if you hear anything new — clicking, buzzing, grinding — call sooner rather than later. Small noises become big invoices.

A full AC and heating system replacement typically runs $10,000–$15,000 installed. The biggest price drivers are your home's size (which determines tonnage), the efficiency rating you choose (higher SEER2 = higher upfront cost but lower bills), and whether your ductwork needs modification. A 1,500 sq ft ranch with good ducts is on the low end. A 3,000 sq ft two-story that needs duct modifications lands higher. We provide written quotes with no hidden fees — the number we give you is the number you pay.

A Manual J is the engineering calculation that determines exactly how many BTUs of cooling your home needs. It accounts for square footage, insulation R-values, window area and orientation, number of occupants, ceiling height, ductwork design, and even the color of your roof. Without it, a contractor is guessing your system size based on square footage alone — and they almost always guess too big. An oversized system short-cycles: it cools the air fast but shuts off before removing humidity, leaving your home clammy and uncomfortable. It also wears out faster because of the constant start-stop cycling. We run a Manual J on every single installation.

A standard system replacement — condenser, air handler, thermostat, refrigerant lines — takes one day, typically 8–10 hours. If we're modifying ductwork, upgrading electrical, or replacing a furnace at the same time, it can stretch to a second day. We schedule the full time block so you're not waiting on a crew that left to start another job. Your system will be running and tested before we leave.

In San Antonio, where your AC runs 8 months a year, the efficiency rating matters more than in cooler climates. The federal minimum is currently 14.3 SEER2. We typically recommend 15–16 SEER2 as the sweet spot for most homeowners — the energy savings are meaningful without the steep price jump of ultra-high-efficiency systems. A 17+ SEER2 variable-speed system makes sense for larger homes where you'll stay for 10+ years and want the best humidity control and quietest operation. We'll show you the actual energy cost difference for your specific home based on your CPS Energy rates.

Three potential sources of savings: CPS Energy offers rebates on qualifying high-efficiency systems — typically $200–$800 depending on the equipment. The federal IRA provides tax credits up to $2,000 for heat pump installations (not standard AC). Trane also runs manufacturer rebates seasonally, usually $300–$500 during spring and fall promotions. These stack — a heat pump installation could get you $2,500–$3,000 back. We handle the CPS paperwork and provide the documentation you need for the federal credit at tax time.

Not always, but about 30% of installations in older San Antonio homes need some duct modification. Common issues: undersized return air (causes the new system to starve for airflow), disconnected or crushed flex duct in the attic, and leaking connections that dump conditioned air into your attic instead of your rooms. We inspect your ductwork as part of the load calculation and tell you upfront if it needs work. A new 16 SEER2 system connected to leaky, undersized ductwork will perform like a 12 SEER system — you'd be paying for efficiency you're not getting.

For San Antonio's climate, heat pumps are increasingly the better value. A heat pump does both heating and cooling from one unit — so you're replacing two systems with one. Our winters are mild enough that heat pumps handle them efficiently without a backup furnace. The upside: lower operating costs year-round, eligibility for the $2,000 federal tax credit (traditional AC doesn't qualify), and simpler maintenance. The downside: higher upfront cost ($12,000–$18,000 vs. $10,000–$15,000). We install both and can show you the 10-year cost comparison for your specific situation.

We offer 0% interest financing through Wells Fargo, Synchrony, and Credit Human with promotional periods up to 18 months. Most credit decisions come back in minutes. You can also stack financing with CPS Energy rebates and Trane manufacturer rebates — the rebates reduce what you owe, so your financed amount is lower than the sticker price. For example, a $13,000 installation with a $500 CPS rebate and $400 Trane rebate means you're financing $12,100. Some homeowners also use home equity lines or pay cash — we accept all major payment methods.

A single tune-up visit runs $89–$250 depending on what's included. Our maintenance agreement at $189/year is the better deal if you want both AC and heating coverage — you get 2 visits per year, 15% off any repairs, priority scheduling during peak season, and no service call fees between visits. Most customers save money on the agreement within the first year.

March or early April — before San Antonio heats up and before our schedule fills. By May, we're running repair calls all day and availability for tune-ups gets tight. The whole point of maintenance is to catch problems before you need your AC at full capacity. If you wait until June, you're too late to prevent a summer failure.

Every 30–60 days during cooling season (March–November in San Antonio). If you have pets, allergies, or a dusty home, lean toward 30 days. Use a standard pleated filter (MERV 8–11). Those thick, expensive MERV 13+ filters restrict airflow on most residential systems and can cause the same problems as a dirty filter — frozen coils and stressed components. If you want better filtration, ask us about a whole-home air purifier that doesn't restrict duct airflow.

Yes. About 80% of the emergency repair calls we run in summer involve something that would have been caught during a spring tune-up — weak capacitors, low refrigerant, clogged drains, dirty coils. The other 20% is genuinely unpredictable (lightning strikes, power surges, manufacturing defects). We can't prevent everything, but we can catch most problems when they're cheap to fix instead of when they strand you in 105° heat.

Our $189/year agreement includes 2 tune-up visits (spring for AC, fall for heating), 15% off all repairs for the year, priority scheduling during peak season (you go to the front of the line), no service call fees between visits, and no overtime charges for weekend service. It's designed to make maintenance easy to schedule and repairs cheaper when they happen.

You can, but you're gambling. The components that fail in July — capacitors, contactors, fan motors — don't show symptoms until they fail. They don't gradually get worse in a way you'd notice. A capacitor at 50% strength starts the compressor just fine in April when it's 85° outside. That same capacitor can't handle the startup load in July when it's 105° and the system has been cycling all day. Maintenance catches these things with a meter, not by waiting for the failure.

Three things: change your filter regularly (every 30–60 days in summer), keep your outdoor condenser clear of debris and vegetation (2 feet clearance on all sides), and don't set your thermostat below 72°. Every degree below 72° adds about 3% to your cooling costs and makes your system work significantly harder. Also, if you hear anything new — clicking, buzzing, grinding — call us. Don't wait for the tune-up. Small noises become big repairs.

We check the visible ductwork connections at the air handler and measure airflow at registers to spot obvious restrictions. A full duct inspection — checking every run in the attic for disconnections, damage, and leaks — is a separate service. If your system is maintaining proper temperature splits but certain rooms are always warmer, that's a duct issue worth investigating. We'll tell you if we suspect duct problems during the tune-up.

Most heat pump repairs fall in the $300–$800 range — the same as traditional AC repairs for shared components like capacitors, contactors, and fan motors. Heat-pump-specific repairs run higher: reversing valve replacement is $500–$900, and defrost board replacement is $300–$500. Compressor replacement is $1,200–$2,500. We charge a diagnostic fee of $89–$250 that applies toward the repair if you move forward.

Three common causes: a stuck reversing valve (most likely), low refrigerant from a leak, or a defrost cycle stuck in "on" (pulling heat from your home instead of the outdoor air). First, check your thermostat — make sure it's set to "heat" and not "emergency heat" or "cool." If settings are correct, check whether the outdoor unit is running. If it's running but you're getting cold air inside, the reversing valve is the primary suspect. Call us — this is a heat-pump-specific diagnosis that AC-only companies often miss.

Heat pumps are designed to run longer cycles than furnaces — they produce lower-temperature air and heat your home gradually rather than in short intense blasts. Long run times are normal, especially when outdoor temps are below 40°F. But if your system literally never cycles off, even when the thermostat is satisfied, you likely have a sizing issue (too small for your home), a refrigerant leak (system can't reach the set temperature), or a stuck contactor (electrical switch welded closed). Running non-stop also burns out compressors, so get it checked sooner rather than later.

Yes — that's the defrost cycle, and it's completely normal. When your heat pump runs in heating mode, the outdoor coil gets cold and collects frost. Periodically, the system reverses briefly to melt the frost, which creates steam and a whooshing sound. This should last 5–10 minutes and happen a few times per day in cold weather. If the outdoor unit is a solid block of ice, or the defrost cycle runs for 30+ minutes, the defrost board or sensor has failed and needs repair.

"Emergency heat" switches off the heat pump and runs your electric backup heat strips only. These cost 3–4x more per hour than the heat pump. Only use emergency heat if the outdoor unit has failed completely and you need to keep the house warm until we arrive. It's a stopgap, not a heating strategy. If you find yourself using it regularly, something is wrong with the heat pump and it needs diagnosis.

Yes. We service and repair all ductless mini-split brands including Mitsubishi, Daikin, and RunTru by Trane. Mini-split heat pumps have the same core components (compressor, refrigerant, reversing valve) as ducted systems but also have unique elements: wall-mounted air handlers with built-in blowers, electronic expansion valves, and proprietary control boards. We carry common mini-split parts and can diagnose multi-zone systems where one head is working and others aren't.

Heat pumps in San Antonio typically last 10–14 years — shorter than in moderate climates because they run year-round without an off-season. With bi-annual maintenance (spring and fall), you can push toward the higher end. Without maintenance, expect closer to 10 years. When a heat pump over 10 years old needs a major repair (compressor, reversing valve), we'll show you the repair-vs-replace math. The 10-year age line is where replacement often starts making more financial sense.

Technically yes, but we rarely recommend it. The indoor and outdoor units are matched by the manufacturer for efficiency, refrigerant type, and capacity. Mixing a new outdoor unit with a 12-year-old air handler means the new equipment can't perform to its rated efficiency — you're paying for a 16 SEER2 system and getting 12 SEER2 performance. You also risk voiding the manufacturer warranty on the new unit. In most cases, replacing both units costs modestly more than one and gives you a matched system with a full warranty.

A complete heat pump installation runs $12,000–$18,000. The price depends on your home's size (determines tonnage), the efficiency level you choose (SEER2 rating), and whether ductwork needs modification. After stacking the $2,000 federal tax credit, CPS Energy rebates ($200–$800), and Trane promotions ($300–$500), the net cost drops to roughly $8,000–$15,500. We provide written quotes with the rebate analysis included so you see both the gross and net cost.

San Antonio is one of the best climates in the country for heat pumps. Our long summers are no problem — a heat pump cools identically to a traditional AC. Our mild winters (average January lows around 38°F) are well within the efficient operating range of modern heat pumps. The only concern is the occasional deep freeze below 20°F, which happens maybe 2–5 nights per year. On those nights, a modern heat pump still produces heat — just less efficiently. For most San Antonio homes, a standalone heat pump covers 100% of heating needs. If you want absolute peace of mind during rare freezes, a dual fuel system adds a small gas furnace as backup.

Mechanically, a heat pump IS an air conditioner — plus a reversing valve that lets it run in reverse to heat. In cooling mode, they're identical in performance, efficiency, and noise. The difference is that a traditional AC can only cool, so you need a separate furnace for heat. A heat pump does both from one unit. The trade-off: heat pumps cost $2,000–$3,000 more upfront than a traditional AC, but you eliminate the furnace, qualify for the $2,000 tax credit, and get lower operating costs year-round.

A dual fuel system pairs an electric heat pump with a small gas furnace. The heat pump handles heating down to about 30–35°F (very efficiently). Below that, the gas furnace kicks in automatically. This gives you the best of both worlds: heat pump efficiency 95% of winter, gas furnace reliability during rare deep freezes. In San Antonio, a dual fuel system is somewhat overkill for most homes — a standalone heat pump handles our winters fine — but it's a great option for larger homes or homeowners who want a backup for the 2–5 nights a year that drop below 20°F.

Usually yes. Heat pumps connect to the same duct system as a traditional AC and furnace. The main consideration is airflow: heat pumps push slightly more air volume than furnaces, so if your return air is undersized (common in older San Antonio homes), we may need to add a return or resize existing ducts. We inspect your ductwork during the load calculation and include any modifications in the quote — no surprises on installation day.

Savings depend on what you're replacing. Switching from electric resistance heating (baseboard or electric furnace) to a heat pump typically cuts heating costs by 50–65%. Switching from a gas furnace, the savings are smaller and depend on gas vs. electricity prices — in San Antonio with CPS Energy rates, a heat pump's heating cost is roughly comparable to a modern gas furnace. The real savings come from replacing an old, low-efficiency AC at the same time: upgrading from a 10 SEER system to a 16 SEER2 heat pump can save $60–$100/month on summer cooling bills.

Yes — heat pumps qualify for a $2,000 federal tax credit under the Inflation Reduction Act (IRA). This is a direct credit, not a deduction — it reduces your tax bill dollar-for-dollar. Traditional AC systems do not qualify. To claim it, you need the manufacturer's certification statement (we provide this) and IRS Form 5695 filed with your tax return. The credit applies to the year the installation is completed.

Yes. We offer 0% interest financing through Wells Fargo, Synchrony, and Credit Human with promotional periods up to 18 months. Most approvals come back in minutes. Here's how the math works: a $15,000 installation minus $2,000 federal credit minus $500 CPS rebate minus $400 Trane promotion = $12,100 net cost. You can finance the full $15,000 upfront and apply the rebates/credits as they come in, or finance the net amount after rebates. We walk you through the options during the quoting process.

Twice a year — once in spring (before cooling season) and once in fall (before heating season). This isn't optional or a sales tactic. Heat pumps run year-round with two distinct operating modes that stress different components. A single annual visit only covers half the system. Our $189/year maintenance agreement includes both visits, 15% off repairs, and priority scheduling.

A single tune-up visit runs $89–$250. Since heat pumps need two visits per year, most homeowners choose the maintenance agreement at $189/year — it covers both visits and includes 15% off any repairs, priority scheduling during peak season, and no service call fees between visits. Paying per visit would cost $178–$500/year without any of those benefits.

Because it runs all 12 months instead of 8. A standalone AC sits idle from November to March — 4 months where nothing is wearing. Your heat pump switches to heating mode and keeps running. That's 50% more operating hours per year, which means 50% more wear on shared components like the compressor, fan motors, and capacitors. Plus, it has additional components (reversing valve, defrost system, backup heat strips) that a standalone AC doesn't have at all.

You can, but you're gambling on your heating. The fall visit specifically checks components that only operate in heating mode: the reversing valve, defrost cycle, and backup heat strips. If any of these fail, you'll find out on the coldest night of the year — not during the tune-up. The spring visit doesn't test these components because they're not active in warm weather. Skipping fall means 6+ months of potential issues going undetected.

Three things: change your air filter every 30–60 days (heat pumps are more sensitive to restricted airflow than furnaces because they produce lower-temperature air), keep the outdoor unit clear of debris and vegetation (2 feet clearance minimum — especially important during cedar season when pollen coats the coil), and don't stack anything against or on top of the indoor air handler. Also, if you notice ice building on the outdoor unit during winter beyond a light frost, that's a defrost problem — call us before it damages the compressor.

It can. Most manufacturer warranties (including Trane) require proof of regular maintenance for warranty claims. If your compressor fails at year 7 and you can't show maintenance records, the manufacturer can deny the claim — leaving you with a $2,000+ bill that would have been covered. Our maintenance agreement provides documented service records for every visit, which satisfies warranty requirements.

More so than for any other system type. Heat pumps need two visits per year (not one), have more components that can fail, and have shorter lifespans due to year-round use. The $189/year agreement covers both visits ($178–$500 value), gives you 15% off repairs (heat pump repairs average $400–$600, so that's $60–$90 savings per repair), and includes priority scheduling (critical when your only heating and cooling source fails). Most heat pump owners break even on the agreement within the first year.

Yes. Mini-split heat pumps need the same bi-annual service as ducted systems, plus cleaning of the indoor wall unit's blower wheel and drain pan — areas where mold and dust accumulate in San Antonio's humidity. We service all mini-split brands including Mitsubishi, Daikin, and RunTru by Trane. The maintenance agreement covers mini-split systems at the same $189/year rate.